It would be best to upgrade to a free-flowing exhaust and an aftermarket air intake/filter before installing a manual boost controller. This will make it easier for the turbo to spool and guarantee that the automobile has adequate ventilation.
An aftermarket boost gauge is a must-have accessory. Most stock boost gauges are inaccurate even when using stock boost and become significantly less reliable when using higher stock boost levels. Overboosting can cause engine failure, so it’s essential to have a reliable aftermarket boost gauge.
How It Operates:
The actuator for the wastegate controls the amount of base boost available. To enhance the increase beyond factory settings, the boost controller interrupts the pressure line leading to the wastegate actuator.
Locate the wastegate actuator, typically connected to the turbo, unless an external wastegate is used. A vacuum line port on the wastegate actuator will connect to the thruster. The compressor housing of the turbo, the intercooler pipes, or the intake manifold may all be the origin of the boost. The manual boost controller is going in here on the vacuum line. The boost control solenoid is connected to a different vacuum line if the vacuum line from the boost source to the wastegate actuator has a T fitting. If you have a T fitting, disconnect the solenoid from its supply line but leave it connected to power.
A tiny hole will be bored into the boost controller’s barb that connects to the wastegate actuator. Never plug this hole or interchange the wastegate barb with the boost barb.
You can customize the length of the suction hose with your boost controller by cutting it into two equal parts. The first part is the connection between the controller’s boost barb and the boost supply. The second part joins the controller’s wastegate barb to the wastegate vacuum port. A helpful hint is lubricating the barbs with oil if you have trouble sliding the vacuum lines onto them. Vacuum caps should seal off any exposed boost sources, and cable ties should be used to secure all connections along the vacuum lines. Once you’ve raised the stock boost on your turbo automobile, you should switch to Premium Fuel.
The automobile must be tested now that the boost controller has been installed. We suggest trying with the MBC’s adjustment knob in the center position it was when you first got it. Increasing boost by rotating the knob clockwise; decreasing gain by turning the knob counterclockwise. You must carefully monitor your boost gauge at this stage to avoid damaging your motor by accidentally over-boosting.
Take your car for a spin somewhere out of the way, where you can safely pull over and restart it multiple times without holding up traffic. Press the gas pedal slowly and observe the needle on the boost gauge rise. Boost it more if the gauge is still below your goal. If the boost is getting too high, turn it down. As often as is required, return to Step 1. It usually takes five to ten tries to dial in the perfect boost for your vehicle. To begin, turn the boost knob by half a turn; as you get closer to your goal, you may need to turn it even more slowly. Never make a more significant adjustment than a half-turn.
Depending on the modifications you’ve made and the design of your fuel system—particularly the capacity of your pump and injectors—your car’s maximum safe boost level will vary. Find out how much of a boost your automobile can safely handle by doing homework.
If you want to install a boost controller manually, you can use this as a starting point. The installation procedure may change significantly if your car has a twin turbocharger or an external wastegate.
Learn more about setting up a manual boost controller here.