Instructions for Fitting a Tail Pipe on a Motorcycle

It shouldn’t be hard to find a place to buy a set of custom motorcycle exhausts, right? That’s what I thought until I saw all the alternatives. It all boils down to personal preference because, after all, isn’t that the point of riding a bike? Autonomy, or the opportunity to pursue one’s own goals and identities. The slogan “Loud pipes Save Lives” isn’t the only justification for making a lot of noise while cruising. It’s a big, bold statement that demands attention. In my way, I’m independent and happy. When it comes time to upgrade from the factory exhaust system, you have many options. Baffled or unbaffled, straight drag pipes, Y pipes, and two-into-one systems. There appear to be hundreds of brands available and many more producers than I realized. A pair of lines in one, modeled like the traditional Street-Rod side pipes. Your engine will have that vintage “I mean business” look with these 2″ head pipes that are contoured from 16 gauge steel and wrapped around it.

The designers of these pipes aimed to convey a sense of power with their message. The gorgeous appearance of this exhaust is matched by its wild sound, making it a perfect addition to any custom chopper. They look and perform just like they do in the name: sleek and sophisticated with straight drag pipes and top-tier performance. They provide a deep, rumbling noise that will wake the sleeping next-door neighbors. Torque cones are essential for optimal performance when using straight pipes. Increasing the speed of the exhaust stream is how torque cones boost power. Exhaust backpressure is another issue torque cones assist in solving. There are no long-term changes necessary for the straightforward installation. For use with exhaust systems that do not have baffles and therefore need back pressure to function correctly.

Exhaust wrap is a favorite of some folks. Wrapping your exhaust system in exhaust wrap can enhance horsepower and decrease leg discomfort by retaining exhaust heat. Wrapping the exhaust system keeps the exhaust gases hotter for longer, reduces their density, and speeds up their exit, all leading to a higher power.

Putting in new pipes should be easy, right? Simply unscrew and reinstall. You should know a few things before installing a new motorcycle exhaust pipe.

Changing pipes only requires standard hand tools. Most of the work can be accomplished with standard combination wrenches and an accompanying socket set (in either metric or standard sizes). An Allen wrench or two can also come in handy. To begin, quickly inspect the factory exhaust system. Do you need to remove any other essential parts besides the exhaust? Usually not, although on cruisers that use liquid cooling, the radiator may need to be removed or loosened to reach the head pipe for the front cylinder. Think about removing the exhaust or removing it in one solid piece. Check that the tool heads are compatible with the fastening sizes. Frustratingly, the 12mm bolt head can be rounded off by a 13mm socket. Now is also the moment to remember any tools or parts you may need, such as the 8mm Allen socket you lent your friend, rather than later when you’re halfway through removing the exhaust and discover the last bolt holding the old pipe to the bike requires an 8mm Allen socket.

Start by undoing the exhaust system’s fasteners, but don’t entirely remove them. There’s probably no need to undo the head pipe if you’re putting on a slip-on muffler. You may remove parts when everything is loose, starting with the damper. Especially if the bike has seen some use and heat and rust have done their dirty job, this may be easier said than done. If the muffler is stuck, spray rust-removing oil into the joint, wait a few minutes, and then pulling rearward while twisting the muffler slightly. Put a block of wood against the mounting bracket and give it a few good whacks with a hammer if it still won’t budge. Have an assistant pull and twist the muffler while you pound on it. Although the finished product might not appear impressive, this technique effectively releases even the most stubborn muffler.

The head pipes can be taken out after the muffler has been removed. These may require some juggling, and a savvy man will use some old towels or rags to shield any painted objects from potential damage. On some versions, a crossover tube makes it more difficult to remove the head pipes. They can be removed collectively with some muscle (pulling and prying). However, the crossover tube may occasionally need to be disconnected.

One-piece exhaust systems are used on several motorcycles.

The removal process for such systems is typically more straightforward. Once the nuts and bolts are loosened, you can use a friend, a jack, or twine or wire to prop up the system. Carefully remove the exhaust system by removing the bolts and lifting them in one piece. Dropping this on painted surfaces might be disastrous, so handle it cautiously.

Inspect the exhaust ports for any loose carbon that could prevent the new pipes from sitting correctly, and if necessary, remove the old exhaust gaskets (if they haven’t already fallen out). Get new gaskets and put them in. Add some anti-seize or lubricant to help keep them in place. The next step is to secure the head pipes by smearing anti-seize on the studs or bolts and then snugging the retaining collars. Anti-seize the open end of the line and attach the collector (Y-pipe) or muffler as appropriate. There should be minimal effort required to assemble all of the parts. Find out what’s clogging the exhaust system if you need a sledgehammer to pound any components together. Do not try to press things together; doing so will only strain the exhaust system. Due to the strain and vibration, the mounting bracket or exhaust pipe could break after only a few kilometers. Instead of riding home with your freshly fitted exhaust dragging over the pavement, spending an hour filing, shimming, or doing whatever is necessary immediately to get a correct fit is preferable.

Tighten everything down, beginning with the cylinder head, once it has been mounted and checked for alignment. First, tighten the head pipe to ensure it sits properly in the port and forms a good gasket seal. Once the collar bolts are secure, draw each subsequent piece of hardware in reverse order, beginning with the muffler. Any extraneous parts you took out should be put back in at this point.

Turn up the volume and take in the soundscape. To paraphrase: alert the neighborhood!

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