Due to the economic downturn, increased concern for the environment, and the skyrocketing price of gasoline, more and more people are interested in purchasing an electric bicycle. In contrast to its late arrival in the New World, the electric bike has long been a standard mode of transportation in Asia and Europe. You can buy an electric bike pre-built from a shop or a conversion kit to turn your regular bike into a hybrid that runs on electricity. A wide range of conversion kits available can provide a high-quality electric bicycle at a fraction of the cost of a factory-made one. These kits can be installed with a minimum of effort and effort-intensive equipment. However, you shouldn’t use them if you need an electrician to swap out a bulb.
I’m utilizing a 350-watt, 36-volt front-wheel-drive system because it’s simpler to work with than a rear-drive setup for this article. Although your conversion kit may be missing some of the items I mention here—a horn button or headlight, for example—most of the information presented here should be universally applicable.
First and foremost, you’ll need the patience to assemble your electric bike kit. Don’t be in such a hurry. Do things properly and take your time. Many online resources state that installing a conversion kit takes no more than an hour. If you’ve done this previously and know precisely what you’re doing and everything fits flawlessly, then maybe this is the case. However, if you want the final product to look polished and professional, you should plan on spending the better part of a day on it.
Step 1: Unhook the brake lines from the calipers. Flip your bike over so the front wheel rests on the handlebars. Swap out the front wheel for the replacement one included in the kit. When the cycle is turned right-side-up, the cables coming out of the wheel should be on the left side of the frame.
You may need to file the “dropouts” wider so the axle can fit snugly. Use a mill file to smooth off the fork’s underside. Be sure to rub both sides of the division in the same manner.
Several washers are mounted on the axle. Slide the appropriate amount of units to fill the gap between the fork and the hub motor. If the motor housing is rubbing against the knife, use at least one washer on each side of the engine. Depending on the size of your fork, you may need to use some muscle to do this. Spare washers can be left on the fork’s outside. Make sure the nuts are snugly fastened. The motor’s delicate wires may be damaged if it were to pull out of the front fork. If, after tightening these nuts, the front wheel still won’t spin freely, you can use the spare washers to modify the wheel’s position in the fork.
Next, mount the battery rack and right-side-up the bike. You may need to experiment a little to get the spacing just right. Fasten the frame to the battery mounting plate (which arrives pre-assembled with the battery).
Third, take your handlebars and remove the old grips. Depending on how tight they are, You can use pliers to twist them off or a sharp blade to cut them off. The original brake levers should be removed after the grips have been removed. Squeeze the brake levers to get to the ball at the end of the cable in the brake handle. Slide the lever assembly off the handlebar by pulling this out through the gap at the handle’s top. First, you may need to remove your bike’s gear levers.
Fourth, put the light where the handlebars meet in the middle of the bike. The horn button may be on the handlebars’ left side, close to the lamp. Simply replace the cables on the new brake levers with the same length as the old cables, and slide the levers onto the handlebars. The throttle handle can be positioned to your liking, and the plain grip can be placed at the other end. A dab of lubricant here and there might help you locate these parts if they’re snug. Do not secure anything by tightening clamps or set screws until satisfied with the arrangement.
Pull the brake cable through the lockdown nut and snug the brake calipers by hand. Fasten the nut down. Make that the brakes are closing properly without rubbing the wheels. Make necessary changes.
Step 6: Bolt the battery box to the bike’s frame. For this reason, the accompanying photo shows the controller mounted to the underside of the battery rack. Be sure the controller’s wire can reach its intended location from the handlebars if you decide to place it there. Follow the diagram on how to connect the wires in the harness. Don’t try to force the connectors if they don’t fit. Take time, check for tight connections, and double-check that the wire colors match the diagram if necessary. The last step is to connect the battery by sliding it into the rack. Use the wire ties to secure the wires so they are not dangling. If you want to turn the handlebars without straining the connection connecting the engine, leave some slack in the cable.
Step 7: Power the device by turning the key and checking the battery indicator. If it doesn’t work, disconnect the key and recheck your wiring. To test if the front wheel rotates, lift it off the ground and slightly twist the throttle. If it doesn’t, try turning the key off and rechecking the wiring. The conversion kit for your bike to make it electric is now finished.
Electric bicycles and conversion kits are among Steve Bodenstein’s wares. He has been involved in nine different businesses from the ground up, making him a serial entrepreneur. He cares deeply about environmental protection, renewable energy, and energy autonomy.
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