First, Determine the lowest point that needs covering on the house. To account for a slight overhang, measure the length of your beginning strip and make a mark 14 inches up from the base of the wall. Make an identical mark at the opposite end of the wall. If your home is flat on all sides, you can keep going around until you reach the original starting position. Connect the dots with a chalk line. Put in corner posts on the exterior of the building, stopping an inch short of the soffit or overhang. The same holds for inside corners. For the inside corner, I utilize two separate J channel pieces. Spread the starter along the line, allowing the dough to grow about a quarter of an inch.
You can now begin siding the wall. Nails should be left about 1/8 inch from the siding because it is hanging, not nailed. We will address the window and door situation shortly. If the wall allows it, start with a whole piece of siding and work toward the end, where the laps will be visible. Cut a piece of siding to complete this run, taking your measurements from the factory side. Use what’s left to initiate a new section. Next, put in a complete team, and so on, until you reach the ceiling or a window. The recommended overlap for siding is 1 14 inches.
Now we can discuss window channeling. The exposed frame side must be measured, and the length of the j channel must be cut to accommodate this. Attach it tightly to the wall close to the window. Finish the back side now. Take a measurement from the outside of the channel face to the outside of the channel face, either at the top or bottom of the channel. Reduce the length of an item. Now, take that section and snip a tab 3/4 inches deep into the base of each end. The side channel is where this will end up. All openings, including those in walls, can be directed this way. Ensure a quarter-inch of space between the sash’s bottom and top when cutting windows.
Overhangs and soffits must be finished before you reach the very peak. From the nose board’s base, I take a spirit level and make a mark 1 inch below level. Carry out this procedure at both wall ends. Draw a dividing line in the sand. Your f channel will be broadcast on this frequency. We’ll understand why I leave the channel’s terminus dangling past the corner overhang in a minute. Keep the track the whole wall length, and extend its ends past any overhangs at the wall’s corners. The reason for the extra inch of space on top of the hub is apparent now. If you haven’t figured it out before, use the nailer to drive nails into the f channel.
Subtract roughly 1/4 inch from the distance you measured between the inside of the channel and the outside of the nose board, which will be the size of your soffit. I use trim nails to fasten the soffits to the ceiling. Nail each part to the nose board in two separate spots. It will maintain its form and not twist. It will be held in the back by the canal. Join the pieces and nail them together as directed; the final report may need to be trimmed to fit. If you purchased prefabricated fascia, cutting it to size before installing it may be necessary. A utility knife and a steady hand will be enough for this. Fascia is installed by sliding it under the drip edge or eve starter and bringing it down so that the curved lip covers the soffit. Nail these pieces together about every three feet, overlapping them by an inch. Leaks can be avoided if the ends are bent around the corners. A hand break can be used before the part is installed. Utility trim should be installed from corner to corner and flush against the f channel once the soffit has been run. The final section of the siding will be installed here. A snap lock tool is required to make the top of the last run indent into the utility trim.
However, siding a gable end of a house will necessitate cutting angles. Simply slide a short section of siding into the lock to achieve the desired angle; make sure the siding does not have any factory ends attached. Once the top corner is flush with the inside of your channel, move it over. Move it back 1/8 inch and take a level measurement from the bottom of the same siding sample to the knowledge of the track. Subtract 1/8 inch. You understand your position now. Mark the top of the piece of siding where the angle will be cut by measuring over from the top, just as you did with the sample piece you used in the roof. Make a mark there, then draw a line down to the corner. Your point is well taken. Unless the roof pitch is different on either side, you should be able to maintain the same angle up the roof on both sides.
You’ve now learned the fundamentals of vinyl siding installation. Best wishes on this lovely day.
For Van Clendenin
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