It is more cost-effective to get a new toilet and have it installed if your current one is outdated and in need of frequent repairs. This is a simple task that can be finished in a single afternoon. However, if you want to move the toilet to a different room, you’ll need to extend the water supply and waste pipes to the new site, a job you might want to outsource to a plumber.
Gaskets, washers, and hardware for connecting the tank to the bowl are often included with purchasing a new toilet. A few components may, however, need to be purchased. Everything you’ll need to finish this job is on this list.
Components include a bowl, tank, seat, two 1/4-inch bolts for attaching the bowl to the flange, a wax ring, a 20-inch water supply with a fitting for either the valve or the floor, and a water supply. Channel pliers, a bucket, and a screwdriver are the required tools.
(Many are available for purchase from any do-it-yourself websites, including DIY Tips UK [http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/plumbing]).
First, turn off the water supply and then use a bucket, washcloth, or sponge to remove any remaining water from the toilet’s tank and bowl.
Remove the nut holding the water line to the ballcock valve on the left side of the tank’s bottom with channel pliers or a tiny pipe wrench (8″). The two 1/4″ bolts attaching the bowl to the floor flange should then be removed using a small crescent wrench. Take out the dated toilet. Detach the water line from the fitting or valve in the floor or wall.
Third, you can start setting up your new toilet. The two 1/4″ bolts should be inserted into the flange’s side holes with the bolt heads facing inward. Use some leftover wax here to keep the bolts standing upright and parallel. Place the flat side down on the flange if the new wax ring is tapered.
Put the replacement bowl in place, centered on the wax ring, with the bolts passing through the holes on either side. Place the bowl on the floor by sitting on it with your back against the wall until it is level. Metal washers and nuts should be used to secure bolts. Over-tightening can cause the bowl to break. Once you’ve finished installing the toilet and filled it with water, you may return and tighten these.
The fifth step is to install a 2″ rubber gasket around the tank’s base in the bowl and to use the supplied rubber washers to move the bolt heads inside the tank. Lift the tank and place it on the bowl over the bolt holes to assemble. Recline on the bowl with your back against the wall. Insert bolts through the tank’s inner wall into the bowl’s holes, then secure them with metal washers and nuts. Keep the tank level and tighten it until it’s flush with the ground. The nut under the bowl can be backed up using a large screwdriver from within the tank and a crescent or end wrench. Use a screwdriver to get it snug. Turn on the water, ensure no leaks, and tighten the bolts securing the bowl to the floor. Place a spacer or something similar between the tank and the wall to provide additional support for the tank. A chunk of wood or rubber will do the trick.
You should empty your toilet tank at least twice a year. To clean the tank of a toilet, first, turn off the water supply, then flush the toilet once, add a little amount of cleaning detergent inside the tank to the water that is left, then scrub the inside with a cloth or brush. The 3/4″ hole at the bottom of the bowl should also be cleaned out, as should the holes under the seat and around the rim. If the rubber ball in the tank needs to be replaced, do so now. Keeping up with regular maintenance on your new toilet might keep the plumber at bay and save you money.
2005 Copyright. Bridget Mwape wrote this article for DIY Tips UK (http://www.diy-tips-uk.com/). It provides home repair and renovation resources, such as how-to articles and supplies. You’re welcome to republish this piece if you keep this author box (byline) intact and leave all the links above intact and clickable.